Mount Logan - Canadian Yukon Range - Date Un-known?
Mount Logan 19,850ft in Canada. Date Un-known
Mount Logan is Canadas Highest peak at 19,850ft and is also the World's largest mountain mass, with every ascent from the surrounding Glaciers, involving a vertical climb of 13,000ft, one of the greatest height gains of any climbing route in the world. It lies within the Klaune National Park, in the Canadian Yukon.
Six Royal Engineers and two Army Doctors, operating in two teams of four, were to ascend the Mountain.
The Plan was to climb the East Ridge by shuttling loads up the mountain, gradually gaining height over a number of days. Starting with the Advance Base camp at 7800ft, to the Top Camp at 17,000ft, finally to the Summit at 19,700ft in one day.
The climbing to the Advance Base camp at 7800ft and onto Camp 2 at 10,500ft was outstanding, including crossing an exposed and narrow rock & snow ridge.
At Camp 2, it was decided that this method of climbing would take too long, so the plan was altered. They would climb 'Alpine' style, with all supplies contained in one load.
Above Camp 2 and below Camp 3, there were narrow snow-knife aretes, the lower one being the "crux" of the route. As if to highlight this fact, one member of the group, fell off at this point, thus proving the ropework and reactions of the rest of his four-man team.
Above the knife-edge ridges, the difficulties and exposure eased, with endless, moderately steep and broad slopes led to Camp 4.
Everyone was starting to feel the effects of Altitude and at night the temperature dropped to minus 35C, making the striking of camp in the morning, a very chilly affair.
After a rest at Camp 5, on the Summit Plateau, with 50 mph winds battering the tents and burying them with blown snow. Those still Fit & Healthy, set off in two groups of three, for the Summit.
The altitude and exhaustion took its toll, forcing one group to return to Camp 5.
After 8 hours of climbing, the second group : Major Will Manners, Captain Leanne Callaghan and Lt. Chris Wilcock, reached the east summit of Mount Logan. The first British Service personnel to do so.
Utterly dehydrated, they descended to Camp 5 and the warm welcome from the rest of the group.
The descent from Camp 5 to the Advance Base Camp, though in good weather, was cautious, due to fresh snow and avalanche possibilities. One member of the team was suffering severe altitude effects and had not eaten or drunk for for several days. Another member was suffering from frost-bite in both hands.
The team took 4 days to descend to Camp 5.
After leaving the mountain, the team were hosted by in Vancouver by 6 Fd Engr sqn CME, for 3 days, before flying back to the UK.
The Team consisted of:
Major Will Manners ............................Lt. Chris Wilcock
Major Bill Bikess .................................WO2 Brian Spivey
Capt. Leanne Callaghan ......................Sgt Dave Bellamy
Capt. Sundeep Dhillon ........................L/Cpl Paul Southwick